Puebla de los Angeles

The Mexico Tourism Board has just put out a  series of videos on different states and, while the images are beautiful, the text doesn’t really capture the essence of some of the places that I know, and the narration makes them seem more like advertisements.  So, with all due respect,  I’ve written an alternate text for Puebla whose food we’ll be featuring this weekend at the restaurant.   It’s not perfect but it’s the Puebla I know and love.

Puebla de los angeles is aptly named for surely there are  angels guarding the treasures of its many richly gilded churches, and like much of the spectacular 19th Century buildings, often ornamented with the local handmade Talavera tiles that are part of our national patrimony and fine examples of the craftsmanship of  the people of our country   — Mexico!

And angels are certainly guarding those that have followed in the foods steps of the nuns who long ago created two of Mexico’s culinary classics:  Mole poblano, that rich and inspired concoction of roasted chiles, peanuts and sesame seeds, redolent of anise, cinnamon and chocolate. And chiles en nogada, a poblano chile filled with a sweet-savory picadillo, bathed in a creamy cheese and walnut sauce and sprinkled with pomegranate seeds—green, white and red, the colors of the Mexican flag,

Puebla has been a cultural center since its birth and several universities are located in its environs including the Universidad de las Americas in nearby Cholula where one image tells the entire story of Mexico.  If you stand in the zocalo and face  west??? you will see a pyramid in the foreground, a church built on top of it and as a backdrop the majestic volcano Popocatepetl.  And while there be sure to pick up a semita, the delicious local bread great at breakfast or for a luncheon sandwich with some smoky longaniza.

Visit the famous Amparo Museum.   You’ll be dazzled by the state of the art media technology they employ to show the varied collection of ancient indigenous implements and pottery mixed with more contemporary works.  Go on to the rococo Alfeñique museum whose objects document the city’s early culture and history.  There’s even an exhibit of the clothes like that worn by the early settlers.    Then sit in a café along the zocalo and have some mole, a chile en nogada if in season, or an alfenique the puffy, white sweet that set the decorative style for the museum..  The city is still known for its convent sweets and some convents still sell them directly.

Your cultural curiosity now sated and your appetite satisfied, you’ll probably want to shop and the city has great antique shops and craft stores.  But most tourists want to bring back at least one Talavera piece.  Visit the workshops of some of the masters and mix and match them like the memories you’ll make as you get to know the craftspeople.  You will discover the alma, the inner being that we prize so much, and enjoy the natural alegria, the sense of fun of locals, and go home in the glow of their warm and generous hospitality.