The food of Catemaco: The place where ancient mexicas thought paradise was

Photo by Carlos Sanchez for visitmexico.com

When people ask me what the most beautiful place in Mexico is,  I look at them and say you’ve got to be kidding.  Mexico is a beautiful country with scenery and  attractions to please every taste and every mood.  I can’t narrow it down to one.  However, if they ask me what the most beautiful place in Veracruz is I do not hesitate one moment before saying Catemaco, a gorgeous lake situated in the northernmost tropical rainforest in the western hemisphere, the Los Tuxtlas UNESCO World Heritage Reserve. (The community is very enlightened about and active in conservation and the reserve takes interns and volunteers so if that is something you would enjoy, contact me and I will put you in touch with the directors.)  This is the place where ancient Mexicans believed the souls of good people went to rest or play for eternity.  Virtually unknown to US tourists this area is a very popular ecotourism destination for Europeans and Mexican nationals and has much to offer in the way of both rest and play.

Birdwatching is a major activity in the area and people come from all over the world to observe the 520 species of birds that have been documented there.  Boat rides on the lake to Nanciyaga, an ecotourism park, where Sean Connery filmed Rainmaker and  that the locals call Nancilandia because it is too Disnelandish for them, are popular and worth your while.  If you’re into black magic this is the center for that as for the more benvolent shamanistic traditions.  There is a nearby pristine beach on the Gulf  Coast, waterfalls for snorkeling and endless other options for nature lovers.

This area was the center of the the Olmec civilization, the mother culture of Mexico, and archeology buffs can visit the small but well-appointed museum at nearby Santiago Tuxtlas where the first gigantic Olmec head was discovered.  The adjacent market is a living museum and a window in to the fascinating cuisine of the region characterized by the used of achiote and hierbas de guizar (cooking herbs.)   This weekend we will feature a menu of dishes from the area.  Many of the most wonderful recipes were given to me by Ines Pavon Contreras.

The food of Catemaco

The place where ancient Mexicans thought paradise was

Soup
Tatabiguiyayo
A beef stew flavored with achiote, tomato, mint, parsley and oregano
8.00

Appetizers
Pellizcada
Corn masa and green plantains made into a thick “pinched” tortilla, topped with a lime and chile sauce and crumbled queso fresco.
9.50

Chile Relleno de Picadillo de Pobre
My favorite picadillo of shaved beef, potatoes, carrots flavored with achiote
10.50

Tamal de Champinones
Corn masa stuffed with button mushrooms sautéed with tomato, chile, herbs and spices and a slice of cheese steamed in corn husks.
10.00

Entrees
Pescado al Mojo de Ajo
Fish fillet cooked and served with whole unpeeled garlic cloves
22.00

Costillas Ahumadas
Smoked baby back ribs served with salsa macha verde
24.00

Vegetable
Ensalada de Chayote
Mexican squash with cilantro, jalapeño and olive oil
8.00