A Dar Gracias (Thanksgiving with Zarela’s family)
On Zarela’s Mind: Giving Thanks (And the Famous Pavo Borracho)
Pavo Borracho
From my son Rodrigo’s second grade homework book:
On Thanksgiving morning my mother made a pumpkin pie.
It smelled wonderful while it was baking.
When the pie was done, Mom took it out of the oven and
Put in the turkey. Then we could smell the turkey baking.
Finally we go t to sit down and eat.
It sure was a great dinner.
That is what Thanksgiving means to me. I love to have my familia around me as we cook. Violeta, my granddaughter, has a hearty appetite and I cannot wait to see how she reacts to the new dishes.
For years, I made the entire meal. Now that they are all grown up and married, each one brings their specialty because the rule at our home is that—everything must be homemade. (Well, except for the bread. You either are a bread baker or not and we’re not.) But Marissa, my daughter, and her husband Emanuel make delicious desserts my favorite is her pear crostata and Emanuel’s flourless chocolate cake. Victoria, Rodrigo’s wife, makes a fabulous pavlova and a wonderful pumpkin pie . She also prepares the chicken liver pate that is always one of our appetizers. Shane and Catya, Emanuel and Marissa’s kids help set the table beautifully so dinner is a complete family affair.
In Mexico, most people do not celebrate Thanksgiving. But all along the border, both Mexicans and Mexican Americans celebrate this beautiful holiday. The traditional menu in most households is: Turkey and dressing, cranberry sauce, overcooked green beans, cranberry sauce, mashed potatoes and sweet potatoes with gooey marshmallows. Most people prepare the classics. We do too, but with a twist.
Our menus tend to excessive. We are a family of professional cooks and eaters and everyone tries dazzle. Marissa makes a fantastic herb salad. I always make a not too sweet and luscious sweet potato casserole I always roast the two turkeys. I buy a big bird that will hold lots of stuffing, because only the stuffing inside is worth eating. But whether I like it or not, everyone demands that I make “pavo borracho”: A turkey stuffed with dried fruits that have been macerated in a mixture of orange juice, tequila and Grand Marnier. My sister Aida developed this dish around 1976. The recipe was published in New York magazine around 1987, and every year since I get two or three requests to post it on our website, www.zarela.com.