Green Pumpkin Seed Sauce. Pepian Verde

When Tyson Ho told me the other day that his favorite Mexican dish is the pepian that they serve at some little Mexican restaurant on 9th Avenue  even if it is the ugliest chicken dish he’s ever had , I was surprised. I did not ask but imagine that he is referring to the tomato-based red pepian which is normally very subtle. Tyson is of Chinese heritage and grew up on very bold, complex flavors and has grown to prefer very clean flavors. (Now he specializes in Carolina Whole Hog Barbeque and serves it simply with vinegar.)  Sorry, darling, this pepian developed by Gary Jacobson, the first chef at Zarela, fairly explodes in your mouth with exciting taste sensations  At that time,hoja santa (Piper auritum or Piper sanctum) was not as  readily available as it is now so, if you can get your hand on some fresh ones)  substitute the tarragon with one large or two small leaves, otherwise stick to the tarragon.

While I normally advocate cooking the meat in the sauce always, I make exceptions with this one. I fried up some of the leftover pork from Pig Island and crisply fried it like carnitas (see photo) and I often serve it with confit of duck It is also wonderful with fish, particularly salmon. It’s a favorite morning spread on corn tortillas, rice crackers or just about anything.   Best of all, it’s a snap to make.

8  cloves of unpeeled garlic cloves

1   medium onion, skin on

1   pound tomatillos

1   poblano chile, roasted, peeled, seeded and chopped

2  teaspooons ground canela or 1 teaspoon U.S. cinnamon

4   teaspoons anise seeds, ground

2     teaspoons minced fresh tarragon or 1 teaspoon dried

Salt to taste

1/2  cup pickled jalapenos sliced

1       tablespoon vegetable oil

1 1/4    cups peeled pumpkin seeds

3    cups chicken stock

Roast garlic for 20 minutes and onion for 35 minutes or until softened. on  a griddle or comal over medium heat.  Peel and reserve in a medium bowl to catch any juices.

Place tomatillos in medium saucepan, add salt and water to cover and bring to a boil over high heat.  Reduce heat and simmer for 3 minutes.  Drain and add to garlic and onion.

Heat the vegetable oil over medium high heat until hot but not smoking.  Add pumpkin seeds and saute, shaking the pan constantly for approximately 4 to 5 minutes.  Do not let the seeds burn or they will turn the whole sauce bitter.  Reserve 1/4 cup for garnish.

Place the pumpkin seeds in the container of the blender with the garlic, onion, tomatillos and all the remaining ingredients and process until smooth, about 2 to 3 minutes.  (A food processor does not work well in this recipe.)  Pour sauce into a large saucepan and simmer gently over low heat, stirring often, for 10 minutes.