Mashed Potatoes- Pure de Papas del Istmo

Ingredients before mixing.

When I visited the Isthmus of Tehuantepec at the season of parties accompanying local velas (saints’ day festivals), I found this vividly seasoned dish being served everywhere.  It also turned out to be one of the regular Sunday offerings at Venancia Toledo Hernández’s food stand in the Isthmian town of Ixtepec.  These are  no ordinary mashed potatoes.  The flavors literally explode in your mouth, particularly when you bite into the pickled onions.  They are good at room temperature or piping hot.

The best part is that it does not have to be served hot.

6 medium-size russet or other starchy potatoes (about 2 1/2 – 3 pounds), scrubbed and quartered but unpeeled

2 medium-size carrots, peeled and cut into 1/4-inch dice

1 cup tiny new peas, fresh or frozen

3/4 cup Mexican crema (see page 000) or heavy cream

1 large egg, beaten

2 teaspoons (or to taste) prepared yellow mustard

4 tablespoons (1/2) stick unsalted butter

1 medium-size onion, finely chopped

1 large garlic clove, minced

1/4 cup minced Italian parsley leaves

One 3-ounce jar pickled pearl onions, drained

1/2 cup pitted green olives, drained and sliced

1/4 cup (or to taste) pickled jalapeño chiles, drained and finely chopped

Freshly ground black pepper

1/2 teaspoon salt (optional)

Prepare the vegetables.  Have ready a medium-size saucepan of boiling salted water.  Add the potatoes and cook until tender, about 12 – 15 minutes.  Lift out, letting them drain well, and peel.  Set aside.  Add the diced carrots and cook until crisp-tender, about 4 minutes.  Scoop out with a strainer or slotted spoon and set aside.  Add the peas and cook until barely tender, about 3 minutes; remove and drain.

In a large bowl, mash the potatoes with a potato masher.  Add the crema and beat with a wooden spoon to eliminate most of the lumps.  Add the egg and mustard, continuing to beat until the mixture is smooth and fluffy.

Preheat the oven to 350°F.

In a medium-size skillet, melt the butter over medium-high heat until fragrant and sizzling but not browned.  Add the onion and garlic and cook, stirring, for 3 minutes, until the onion is translucent.  Add the parsley, cook for 1 minute longer, and beat the mixture into the mashed potatoes.  Stir in the diced carrots, peas, pickled onion, olives, and jalapeños.  Taste for seasoning and add the pepper and optional salt.  Transfer the mixture to a buttered 2-quart baking dish and bake 20 minutes.  Serve at once.

Yield: 6 servings