Recaudo

This concept is not the same thing as recado (although both that and its Caribbean counterpart recaito must go back to the same root). It is probably related to the lengthier Spanish sofrito, which involves onions and garlic slowly cooked in olive oil and then simmered with tomatoes. Variations are found all around the Mediterranean. The recaudo is the same general idea except that the usual Mexican cooking fat would be lard or a bland vegetable oil. It is the beginning of innumerable dishes and is also a wonderful multi-purpose enrichment added to sauces and soups at a later stage; I rely very strongly on this enriching technique in my own cooking. You will frequently find a quick recaudo used (whether by name or not) in the recipes in this book. I recommend it for partly offsetting the failings of canned chicken stock. When used as an enrichment, the recaudo should be simmered at least 5 or l0 minutes in the sauce or soup, to communicate its flavor (strain out if you need a clear broth or smooth mixture, puree in the blender if you want the recaudo to lend a little body).

The basic formula for a recaudo is as follows: Heat 2 tablespoons lard or vegetable oil in a medium-sized heavy skillet until hot but not smoking. Add l medium onion, thinly sliced or chopped (about l cup chopped onion) and l – 2 minced garlic cloves. Saute over medium-high heat, stirring, until onion is golden, 2 – 3 minutes. Add l large ripe tomato, chopped. (Tomato can be roasted first for extra flavor, or used as is. To roast, blacken tomato on all sides over high heat on a griddle or small heavy skillet, or under a broiler. Peel off the blackened skin, holding tomato over a bowl to catch juice.) Continue to saute, stirring, until liquid is mostly evaporated and mixture begins to have a somewhat sauce-like consistency, about 4 – 5 minutes.  Use at once. This makes about l  l/2 cups.  For about 3/4 cup, use l tablespoon lard or oil, l small onion, l garlic clove, and l medium tomato.