Mexican Vegetable Fritters, Brocolli and Cauliflower

Broccoli Fritters

“Tortita” is another of those culinary terms that are clear as a bell to any Mexican but can send other people into fits of despair.  Sometimes it refers to a sort of flattened croquette, involving a basic mixture bound with flour and eggs shaped into small cakes for frying.  (Tortitas de Malanga, page 000, are an example.)  More often tortitas are a family of fritters made by coating a raw or blanched central ingredient (anything from watercress to gasparitos, the spectacular red blossom of the colorín tree) in a little flour and a delicate batter of eggs beaten very light, then frying small portions until golden.  You can eat the cooked fritters as they are or drop them into a sauce, either a thin, soupy kind like Caldillo de Tomate (see page 000) or denser one like Salsa Roja de Orizaba (page 000).

These are adapted from a version that I tasted in Veracruz made with huauzontles, which look a little like broccoli though they are not related.  Huauzontles (Chenopodium nuttalliae) have clusters of tiny buds borne on branched stalks like broccoli, and are one of the most beloved Mexican vegetables.  Substituting broccoli isn’t totally off the wall, because Veracruz is one of the few areas where I’ve come across this vegetable. María Carmen Virúes de Izaguirre tells me that she sometimes makes tortitas with broccoli instead of huauzontles.

Makes 4 – 6 servings

2 heads of broccoli, trimmed and broken into stems

2 teaspoons salt, or to taste

1/2 cup all-purpose flour

8 ounces queso blanco (see page 000), finely shredded (about 2 cups)

3 eggs, separated

Vegetable oil for frying

Peel the tough skin from the lower part of the broccoli stems; cut the stems into 1/2-inch lengths and break the florets into small pieces.  Have ready a large pan of ice water.

Fill a medium-sized saucepan with water, bring to a boil over high heat and add 1 teaspoon of the salt.  Add the broccoli and cook for 3 – 5 minutes, or just until crisp-tender.  Quickly drain the broccoli and plunge into the ice water to stop the cooking.  Drain again, shaking vigorously to get rid of as much water as possible.  Blot with paper towels or kitchen towels to dry completely, or spread out and let stand for a few hours.

In a bowl large enough to hold the broccoli, toss the flour, shredded cheese, and remaining salt to combine thoroughly.  Add the broccoli and toss to coat well.

Beat the egg whites very stiff.  Add the yolks, one at a time, beating well after each addition.  (I use an electric mixer set on high speed).

Pour the oil into a large, deep skillet to a depth of about 2 inches.  Heat to 375°F over medium-high heat.  While it is heating, very gently fold the beaten eggs into the broccoli mixture.  Scoop out small (about 1/2-cup) portions of the mixture.  With your hands, gently shape into slightly flattened rounds.  Drop them into hot oil 3 or 4 at a time and fry, turning once, until golden all over, about 1 minute per side.  Keep checking the temperature of the oil, adjusting the heat as necessary to maintain a steady 375°F.  As the fritters are done, lift out with a slotted spoon and let drain on paper towels.  Serve at once.

Zucchini Cakes with green onions, Cheese and Herbs

I’ve adapted a Turkish recipe for zucchini fritters, mücver,  by using cilantro instead of dill and they are delicious but , In Mexico, you’ll find yuca, mushroom, potato, and cauliflower tortitas.

1 1/2 pounds zucchini, coarsely grated

Salt

5 scallions, chopped

½ cup chopped cilantro

1/3 cup chopped fresh parsley

2 tablespoons grated onion

1/3 cup grated parmesan cheese

3 eggs, lightly beaten

3 tablespoons flour

Freshly ground black pepper

Light olive oil or peanut oil for frying

Vinegar Sauce (see below)

Sprinkle zucchini with salt and allow to sit on a colander for at least 20 minutes.  Squeeze dry and mix in a bowl with the remaining ingredients except the oil.  Season with salt and pepper.

Heat the about 1/2 cup of oil in a nonstick frying pan, drop tablespoons of the mixture into the hot oil, and cook until golden brown on both sides.  Drain on paper towels, transfer to a platter and sprinkle sauce over them.

Aytun’s Vinegar Sauce

2 garlic cloves

1 – 2 tablespoons hot chile paste

1 cup good quality distilled white vinegar

1/3 cup chopped fresh cilantro.

Purée the garlic in the food processor; add the reamining ingredients and process until combined.  Sprinkle over the zucchini cakes.