Wild Mushrooms in Herbed Vinaigrette (Setas a la Vinagreta)

When I first started developing a passion for Veracruzan food, my best source of information in between trips was the splendid illustrated cookbook published in 1992 under the auspices of the state government, La Cocina Veracruzana by María Stoopen and Ana Laura Delgado (If you see me often referring to it, that is because in my opinion it is the finest general work on the food of any Mexican state –- an indispensable aid to all who love Veracruzan cooking.)  Even now that I’ve combed the state from end to end feeling my way to a very personal concept of the Veracruzan kitchen, I go back to some of these recipes because they are delightful and thought-provoking.  My understanding of the Setas a la Vinagreta was deepened after I visited the Veracruzan hill country and saw how the misty climate ensures plentiful seasonal supplies of many wild mushrooms.  I asked after the kind locally called setas and was shown something that I’d call oyster mushrooms.  (If that’s not what a trained mycologist would call them, to me they look and taste and cook like oyster mushrooms.)  Try to use something similar, or any preferred mixture of exotic kinds with the always-useful shiitakes.  The balance of flavors in the Cocina Veracruzana recipe seems to match many kinds of mushrooms.

Makes 4 – 6 servings

2 pounds oyster mushrooms or a combination of varieties (see above)

1/2 teaspoon whole cumin

10 black peppercorns

2 large fresh thyme springs (leaves only)

2 large fresh oregano springs (leaves only)

1 head of garlic, separated into cloves and peeled

2/3 cup olive oil

1/4 cup cider vinegar, diluted with 1/4 cup water

2 large white onions

2 medium-sized carrots

2 jalapeño chiles

4 bay leaves

2 teaspoons salt, or to taste

Wipe the mushrooms clean with a damp cloth or paper towels if they appear dusty or gritty.  Trim away any ragged or spoiled-looking bits.  Set aside.

Make a seasoning paste as follows, using either a large mortar and pestle or a combination of an electric coffee or spice mill and food processor: Grind the cumin and pepper to a powder in a mortar or spice mill.  Either add the thyme, oregano, and garlic to the spices in the mortar and pound to a paste or puree them together in a food processor and add the ground spices.  In a small, heavy skillet, heat about 2 tablespoons of the oil to rippling over medium heat.  Add the garlic-herb paste and fry, stirring, for 2- 3 minutes. Set aside.

Cut the onions and carrots into thin slices.  Stem and seed the chiles and cut into fine julienne.  Choose a skillet large enough to hold all these and the mushrooms, or plan on dividing the ingredients between two skillets. Heat the remaining oil over medium-high heat until fragrant.  Add the onions, carrots, and chiles and cook, stirring for 2 minutes or until the onions are just about translucent.  Add the mushrooms and half of the diluted vinegar.  Cook stirring and tossing to distribute evenly, for 5 – 7 minutes or until the mushrooms have released their juices.  Stir in the reserved garlic paste, remaining diluted vinegar, and bay leaves.  Season with salt to your preference and cook, uncovered, over low heat for 15 minutes of until the juices are nearly evaporated and the flavors are well blended.  Let cool to room temperature before transferring to storage containers.  It will keep in the refrigerator, well covered, for a week to 10 days.

NOTE:  I know it’s not at all Veracruzan, but I have become captivated by a flavored vinegar from Switzerland that makes absolutely wonderful setas a la vinagreta.  If you are lucky enough to find it (Kressi brand, sold in specialty food shops), try using 1/2 cup, undiluted, instead of the 1/4 cup cider vinegar.