Beans fried in butter

One thing I’ve learned when eating in Veracruz is to expect the unexpected.  I never know when I’ll come across some charming original touch that transforms the familiar.

It happened to me at La Viuda Restaurant in Alvarado when our order arrived with a bowl of refried beans.  “What tastes so wonderful in these?” I wondered.  Dora Hernández, the manager, supplied the clue to the rich, elusive quality I was picking up on: the beans are refried in a mixture of butter and grated onion.  This is one case where pinto beans might be used instead of black beans.

Ingredients:

1 large white onion

1 pound dried pinto beans or black beans, cooked as for Frijoles Negros Cocidos (see page 000) and slightly cooled

6 tablespoons butter

1 teaspoon salt, or to taste

Cooking directions:

Grate the onion on the fine side of a box grater, or chop coarsely and grind to a puree in a food processor.  Set aside.

Drain the beans in a colander and reserve about 1 1/2 cups of the cooking liquid.  Working in batches as necessary, process the beans to a smooth paste in a blender or food processor, using up to 1 1/2 cups of the reserved cooking liquid to help the action of the blades.

In a heavy medium-sized skillet, heat the butter over medium heat.  When it foams, add the onion and cook until just lightly golden, about 5 minutes.  Add the beans stir to mix thoroughly, and cook, stirring occasionally for 10 minutes, until the beans are thoroughly imbued with the butter flavor.

Taste for salt and add up to 1 teaspoon if desired (there will be some from the previous cooking of the beans).

Makes 6 servings

I’ll put the tags, photos etc tomorrow.