Eggplant with Veracruzana sauce- Berenjena a la veracruzana

We seldom ate eggplant at home when we were little though it was always a favorite at Italian restaurants. But it’s eggplant season and they are glorious now and I’ve been experimenting. I’ve turned eggplant parmigiana into berenjena a la veracruzana and dropped the cheese, resurrected a recipe my first chef Tony Collicchio created at Cafe Marimba and applied Madhur Jaffrey’s technique of steaming eggplant instead of frying and finihing it in all sorts of sauces; mole amarillo, salsa ranchera, and salsa verde de Tampico with a little coconut milk.

Summary: Who needs gloppy cheese on top of a tangy, spicy marvelously complex veracruzana sauce

2 large eggplants, cut into 1.2-inch slices, heavily salted and allowedto rest for 30 minutes.
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
For the Sauce:
1/4 cup olive oil
5 garlic cloves (3 whole, 2 minced)
1 medium-sized white onion, chopped fine
4 – 5 large ripe tomatoes (about 2 pounds), chopped fine, or one 28-ounce can of Italian plum tomatoes with juice, coarsely chopped
1 teaspoon capers (about 12 – 15 large or 24 – 30 small ones)
12 small pimiento-stuffed green olives
2 – 3 pickled jalapeño chiles, stemmed, seeded, and cut lengthwise into thin strips
2 bay leaves
1/4 cup parsley leaves
2 sprigs of fresh thyme or 1/4 teaspoon crumbled dried thyme
2 sprigs of fresh marjoram or 1/4 teaspoon crumbled dried marjora
2 sprigs of fresh Mexican oregano or 1/4 teaspoon crumbled dried Mexican oregano
1 teaspoon salt, or to taste
1/4 teaspoon ground canela
1/2 cup dry white wine

While the eggplant rests, make the sauce. In a heavy-bottomed medium-sized saucepan with a well-fitting lid, heat the olive oil to rippling over medium-high heat. Add the 3 whole garlic cloves and cook, stirring, until deep golden (but not browned) on all sides; remove and discard. Add the 2 minced garlic cloves and the chopped onion. Cook, stirring frequently, until the onion is translucent, about 3 minutes. Stir in the tomatoes. Reduce the heat to medium-low and cook, stirring occasionally for 15 minutes or until slightly concentrated. Add all the remaining ingredients and cook, covered, for another 15 – 20 minutes, until the flavors are richly melded and it is as thick as you like. Taste for salt and add another pinch or two if desired (the capers and olives will contribute some). If using whole fresh herbs, fish them out of the sauce and discard before serving. Rinse the eggplant and dry thoroughly. Heat the olive oil until almost smoking over medium heat in a 12-inch frying pan. Fry the eggplant in batches until golden, about 3 minutes on each side and drain on paper towels. Transfer to a platter wide a little rim and pour the veracruzana sauce over. Alternativel, you can place the eggplant on top of the sauce and garnish with parsley leaves.

Number of servings (yield): 4

Meal type: dinner

Culinary tradition: Mexican